Culinary Adventure
I never imagined I’d be sitting around a table in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan, sharing a boiled sheep’s head with strangers. However, that’s exactly where I found myself thanks to Apple Hostel. Every week, they take guests to try one of the country’s most traditional dishes. Out of curiosity, I signed up.
That evening, we were taken to a restaurant called Kuurdak Chai Khana: a quiet, unassuming spot that serves hearty local food. We sat down at table not knowing what to expect. Before we knew it, the centerpiece of the night arrived: a full sheep’s head. Laid out on a platter—eyes, ears, tongue, teeth, the whole thing.
Clearly, there was no fancy presentation or effort to hide what it is. And that’s the point. In Kyrgyz culture, serving a sheep’s head is a gesture of respect and tradition. Often it is only seen at big celebrations or important gatherings. The preparation is simple: the head is boiled or steamed whole, sometimes with onion and salt, until the meat becomes tender and can be pulled off easily.
The Sheep’s Head
At first, everyone at the table stared at the platter. Then, one by one, we began to try different parts. I went for the cheek meat first—soft, fatty, and surprisingly mild in flavor. Someone passed around a piece of the tongue, which had a dense, meaty texture.
After that, a few of us tried the ear, which was mostly cartilage—chewy and not especially flavorful, but interesting from a texture point of view.
Finally, came the eyes. I didn’t try them, but two guys at the table volunteered. We watched as they popped them out, surprised by how large they were. They described the taste as egg-like, with a soft, jelly-like texture.
A Delicious Meal
As the meal continued, we kept passing pieces of the head around, slowly working through it and sharing reactions. It was one of the strangest meals I’ve ever had, but also one of the most memorable. Not because it was delicious, but rather because it felt meaningful.
Once we finished, the restaurant brought out more familiar dishes: lagman, beshbarmak, and a plate of cooked lamb with potatoes. Then, our hostess brought out fresh bread and poured us hot tea.
Toasting the Kyrgyz Way
To finish, we took part in a local tradition. Each person poured a bowl of tea and offered a toast—to good health, safe travels, new experiences. Then, one by one, we clinked our bowls and passed the opportunity on.
Ultimately, the sheep’s head was intense, no doubt. But it was also a window into something deeper than just food. It was culture, hospitality, and tradition, all served on one unforgettable platter.
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