Tucked deep in the mountains of Saimaluu Tash, Kyrgyzstan is one of the largest collections of petroglyphs in the world. With nearly 90,000 carvings etched into dark volcanic rock, it feels like an open-air history book. Few travelers make the journey here, but for those who do, the reward is extraordinary.
From Osh to Kazarman
It started with figuring out how to get from Osh to Kazarman, the closest town to Saimaluu Tash. That step alone felt like a puzzle. After chasing a trail of contacts, I finally reached out to a homestay in Kazarman. The woman running it was kind and matter-of-fact: she booked me a room, arranged a guide, and told me exactly how to catch a ride into town.
Kazarman may be tucked between mountains, but it isn’t easy to reach. There’s no bus, no train. Only shared taxis — if you can find one. She explained that a driver was taking a group from Kazarman to Jalalabad and looking for passengers for the return trip. I had to book fast.
So I joined. The ride took five hours through the Fergana Range, and it was as wild as it was beautiful. The road was narrow, bumpy, sometimes nothing more than a strip of gravel clinging to the side of a mountain. But the views of jagged cliffs glowing orange, pale gray ridges, and streaks of yellow stone made every sharp turn feel like a reward. We stopped at a cold spring to splash our faces and refill bottles before pressing on.
As the car climbed to the peak, power lines stretched across the horizon, and then, just as suddenly, the road dropped. Below us, dozens of towns appeared surrounded by endless ridges. Among them Kazarman. I arrived into town ready to rest for the next morning.
Setting Off Toward the Petroglyphs
The next morning, I set out with my guide and a couple who chose to hike. I opted for a horse ride. After months in Central Asia, I knew my lungs struggled with altitude, and Saimaluu Tash sits high.
At first, the trail was deceptively easy: flat valleys, grass brushing against the horses’ legs, the sound of hooves steady against the dirt. Then came the climb. The ground narrowed, parts of the path crumbling underfoot. I held the saddle tight as my horse picked its way across ledges, shifting from steady flats to sudden, steep slopes.
It was a landscape of contrasts. Ahead, a glacier glistened, feeding the river that wound below us. My guide explained that Saimaluu Tash has only two true seasons: July, when everything is green, and August, when the valley turns gold. Outside of those months, the snow makes it too dangerous.
The ride lasted nearly three hours. On foot, it would have been at least four and far more exhausting.
First Sight of Saimaluu Tash, Kyrgyzstan
After spiraling higher and higher, the land opened up into rolling hills dotted with black stone. My guide pointed. “That’s the beginning,” he said simply.
Up close, the rocks weren’t just rocks. They were alive with carvings. Deer leapt across their surfaces. Hunters raised their bows. Sun motifs burned in circles across the stone. Each one different, each one telling a story older than the mountains themselves.
The couple and their guide were resting by a small pond. We joined them, pulling out bread and cheese for lunch. As we ate, the guide explained that Saimaluu Tash covers far more than this one valley. Some carvings lie on the other side of the gravel mountains, requiring a two-day trek to reach. Altogether, nearly 90,000 petroglyphs spread across the area — a vast archive carved into stone.
I wandered through the site slowly, the sunlight catching on dark surfaces, the engravings glinting faintly. There were no fences, no signs, no crowds. Just silence, and the feeling of standing inside a story left behind thousands of years ago.
The Way Back
Eventually, it was time to leave. On the way down, I felt thirsty and asked if the river water was safe. My horse guide shook his head firmly. Too many animals drink there, he said — and sometimes dead ones are found upstream. His advice was clear: always drink from the springs flowing into the river and not out.
The descent was harder than I expected. The same slopes we had climbed now tilted downward, testing my balance and shaking through my legs. Three hours later, I slid off the saddle at the park entrance, exhausted but buzzing.
Final Thoughts
Saimaluu Tash, Kyrgyzstan is not the kind of place you just stumble upon: It demands effort. The bumpy roads, the long rides, the steep climbs. But that effort makes the discovery all the more powerful.
Standing among the petroglyphs, with the mountains stretched out around me and silence pressing close, I felt something rare: awe, humility, connection. Saimaluu Tash isn’t just a hike or a horse trek. It’s a journey into Kyrgyzstan’s oldest stories carved in stone, waiting for those willing to make the climb.
What You Should Know Before Horse Trekking to Saimaluu Tash, Kyrgyzstan
If you’re thinking about going to Saimaluu Tash, here’s what to expect:
- Base yourself in Kazarman. You can’t do it in a day from Jalalabad—plan to stay overnight.
- Book transportation ahead of time. Shared taxis are rare from Jalalabad, and spots fill up fast.
- Go in July or August. Outside these months, trails can be dangerous, and the only alternative is crossing the glacier.
- Be ready for a long journey. On horseback it’s about 3 hours; on foot, closer to 4. Either way, steep and narrow paths are guaranteed.
- Bring water. Only drink from springs—the river isn’t safe.
- Expect rough roads. The trip to Kazarman itself is challenging and takes patience.
- Respect the site. With nearly 90,000 petroglyphs, Saimaluu Tash is one of Central Asia’s cultural treasures.
- Prepare for altitude. At over 3,000 meters, altitude sickness is common. No facilities exist, so come ready.
If interested in going to Saimaluu Tash contact us.
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